You may have seen them cropping up in various skincare routines, but the viral LED face masks are becoming more than just a brief beauty trend. The global LED face mask market is set to grow from £290 million this year to £600 million by 2032, rivalling most mainstream beauty products. While they look fun, this futuristic bit of kit has sparked controversy over its safety and real effectiveness.

So, is the LED mask set to become a beauty bag staple? Or is should it be reserved for dermatologist’s offices only? Doctors reveal how LED light actually effects your skin, and what you should know before buying a mask. What is LED light therapy? LED face masks have been on the market for years, but are only recently gaining mainstream traction in the beauty space. Light-emitting diode (LED) masks work by emitting varying wavelengths of light that treat different skin concerns, depending on the colour of light.

Red light – the most popular – reduces inflammation and promotes blood circulation; while blue light kills acne-causing bacteria. How well the light works is down to its wavelength. “Wavelengths of 630 nanometres (nm) and 830 nm are clinically proven and trusted to improve overall skin complexion,” explains iSMART ‘s global educator, Tracy May-Harriott.

“These wavelengths have been shown in studies to stimulate collagen and elastin production, and to help improve blood flow and tissue oxygenation through a process called ‘photobiomodulation’.” Photobiomod.